Capanna Margherita – Mountaineering course above 4000 metres

5 intense days that will take you to climb many peaks above 4000 m in the Monte Rosa massif

Price: 710,00

Partecipants:

Add insurance for dangerous sports

Partecipants:

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Western Breithorn, Piramide Vincent, Balmenhorn, Punta Gnifetti and sleeping in Capanna Margherita. All in a single 5-day event where you will be trained by mountain guides during the afternoon. A real internship to learn as you climb to the top of your first 4000!

Schedule

The following program may be subject to change at the sole discretion of the instructor due to weather reasons or safety conditions on the glacier.

DAY 1

  • Meeting in Cervinia at around 11am, introduction and ascent to the Rifugio Teodulo.
  • Afternoon on the glacier where we will review the rope maneuvers and the progression technique on the glacier.
  • Overnight stay at the refuge and dinner.

DAY 2

  • Wake up early. Formation of the rope teams and ascent to the first 4000m peak, the Western Breithorn (4159m).
  • Descent to Cervinia and independent departure by car towards Gressoney.
  • Free dinner, overnight stay and breakfast in a hotel in Gressoney (included in the price, double/triple rooms, check in from 3pm to 9pm, late check in can be agreed upon).

DAY 3

  • Meeting at around 11am in Stafal to take the lifts towards the Citta di Mantova or Gnifetti refuge.
  • Theoretical-practical lesson on glacial terrain, crevasse recovery maneuvers.
  • Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.

DAY 4

  • Climb to the Capanna Margherita (4554m), the highest refuge in Europe.
  • Dinner and overnight stay.

DAY 5

  • Today the objective will be no less: During the descent we will visit the Balmenhorn bivouac with a snack break.
  • Possible Vincent Pyramid based on group conditions. We will continue to descend, happy to be able to bring home climbs worthy of their name.

Possibility of reaching Punta Zumstein on day 4 after lunch at Capanna Margherita. The guide will establish the suitability for the climb of each individual participant. Those who do not participate will wait in Capanna Margherita, as per the original program. The cost is €150 total (to be divided) to be paid directly to the guide on site.

Participants:

  • Maximum 5 per guide
  • Minimum 3 per guide

We form the groups, you can also participate alone

Note: due to overbooking problems there will be the possibility of sleeping 2 nights at the Gnifetti Refuge

Dates

The expected duration of the internships is 5 days

  • From 26th to 30th June2024
  • From 03 to 07 July 2024
  • From 10th to 14th July 2024
  • From 17 to 21 July 2024
  • From 24th to 28th July 2024
  • From 31st July to 04th August 2024
  • From 07 to 11 August 2024
  • From 14th to 18th August 2024
  • From 21st to 25th August 2024
  • From 28th August to 01st September 2024
  • From 04 to 8 September 2024
Required skills

Good physical condition. Trained person who practices sports even at a non-competitive level. Ability to tackle summer trekking with around 1300/1500 m of altitude difference without too much effort.

Good physical condition. Trained person who practices sports even at a non-competitive level. Ability to tackle summer trekking with around 1300/1500 m of altitude difference without too much effort.

The price includes

  • Mountain Guide Instructor for 5 days;
  • Accommodation for the mountain guide half board included;
  • 1 night in Gressoney in a hotel (in a double/triple room, overnight stay and breakfast included in the price!)
  • Common equipment (ropes, carabiners, quickdraws)
  • Sign up to the Adventure Dreamers group in your region and be able to participate in free self-organized activities of our members throughout the year.

The price does not include

• All overnight stays in the refuges (except the Gressoney hotel included);
• Mountain guide lunches (to be divided among the participants of the group)
• Guide cable car expenses (to be divided among the participants of the group)
• Travel expenses;
• Snacks and any packed lunches or lunches in the refuge;
• Monte Rosa cable car (Stafal-Indren approximately €40);
• Cervinia cable car (€41, mountain guides €21):
• Ice axe, crampons and harness rental (can be rented – See FAQ below)
• Everything that is not listed in the “the price includes” section

IMPORTANT!!!

The shelters have already been booked by Adventure Dreamers. We also paid in advance the booking deposits.

The balance of the refuges must be paid no later than 1 month before the start date of the event.

PAY FOR REFUGES NOW

EXPECTED COSTS FOR SHELTERS
• 1 night at Rifugio Teodulo, half board (70€);
• 1 night at the Gnifetti Refuge, half board (95€)
• 1 night at Rifugio Margherita, half board (140€)

Required personal equipment

  • Layered clothing suitable for high mountains (see FAQ)
  • Harness, crampons, ice ax and helmet (can be rented, see FAQ below)
  • Sunglasses (at least cat. 3, preferably 4), sun screen, hat, neck warmer, two pairs of snow gloves, thermos or water bottle depending on the temperature, 30/40 liter backpack
  • Rigid, high-ankle, waterproof mountain boots

See FAQ for a complete list of equipment and clothing

The Guides

AD collaborates exclusively with IFMGA/UIAGM certified Mountain Guides

Over the years, an excellent relationship of collaboration, trust and friendship has been established with all the guides chosen for our events. We are a guarantee of a professional service carried out safely thanks to the experience of our guides.

FAQ

Domande frequenti
The internship lasts 5 days and you will progressively learn the basic techniques of forming a roped party and progression in a glacial environment. You will learn to use an ice axe and crampons and how to coordinate with your climbing partners.

No technical mountaineering or glacier skills are required.
Obviously good physical shape allows you to progress faster. Progression above 4000m is more tiring than at low altitude, this is due to the lack of oxygen. If you have mountain experience even in the summer season and can do trekking with more than 1300m of positive altitude difference without being too tired, you can participate.
The registration fee includes:

– 5 days with a Mountain Guide, who will not only accompany you in your attempt to conquer peaks above 4000m, but will train you on the use of materials and rope maneuvers and progression techniques in a glacial environment.
– Overnight stay in Gressoney
– Membership in the Adventure Dreamers group in your region, being able to participate in free self-organised activities of our members throughout the year.

However, it does not include nights (except that of Gressoney) and half board in the refuges, travel to the places where the internship takes place, the cable car, the guide’s cable car (to be divided among the participants), personal lunches and those of the guide (to be divided among the participants), and the rental of ice axe, crampons, harness and boots.
see FAQ. of “WHAT SHOULD I HAVE AND BRING WITH ME DURING THE INTERNSHIP? (Rental prices)”
The event will take place in the Monte Rosa massif in the locations indicated in the Program. However, due to weather conditions or the state of the glaciers and in any case for safety reasons, the Alpine Guide reserves the right to modify the program at its sole discretion.

It is possible to organize car sharing from Milan, Turin or the main urban centers and share travel costs, also for those arriving by public transport in Aosta. The organization of transports is personal. It can be organized among participants on a WhatsApp group created by us to share cars.

Meeting in Cervinia on the first day between 11:00 and lunch time. (time and location will be communicated on the WhatsApp group).
The WhatsApp group will be created about a week before the event!

The cars will be left in Cervinia and picked up on the second day to move to Gressoney. From day 3 to day 5 the cars will be left in the car park of the Staffal, Gressoney cable cars.
In the mornings the wake-up call is always around 5am (the time will depend on the temperatures). All itineraries will be undertaken at first light for reasons of safety and stability of the glacier.
The mountain guides will establish the time based on the weather conditions of the days, which are always subject to changes for your safety and that of others.

Meeting in Cervinia on the first day around 11am (time and location will be communicated on the WhatsApp group).

The WhatsApp group will be created about a week before the event!
In case of bad weather predicted by the guide the event will be canceled. If the guide decides to confirm the event because he considers a high success rate and sufficient safety conditions with respect to the weather, the cost of the event will not be refundable. No refunds will be given if a member of the group is unable to reach the summit or if the guide decides to descend due to reasons due to the group’s abilities or the weather.
• BAD WEATHER: In case of bad weather predicted by the guide, the event will be canceled by the guide. If the guide decides to confirm the event because he considers a high success rate and sufficient safety conditions in relation to the weather, the climb will be confirmed and the cost of the event will not be refundable. Usually the dawn is stable in the mountains, to guarantee the success of the stage, the wake-up and ascent times may be changed.
• FAILURE TO PARTICIPATE: if you are unable to participate due to personal reasons it will not be possible to receive a refund.
• FAILURE TO REACH THE MINIMUM NUMBER: if the group of participants does not reach the minimum number, you will be entitled to a refund or you can use the fee for any other event. It’s your choice!
• INAPPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT: it is not possible to receive a refund if you do not have the mandatory technical equipment and/or unsuitable clothing. In this case the guide may decide not to let you participate in the climb • FAILURE TO REACH A PEAK: in case of failure to reach a peak foreseen in the program, no refund will be provided.
• OTHER CAUSES: for any other cause of cancellation on our part you are entitled to a refund.
• COVID OR OTHER ILLNESSES/INJURIES: there is no refund due to COVID, various injuries or other illnesses. No refunds will be given if a member of the group is unable to reach the summit or if the guide decides to descend due to reasons due to the group’s abilities or the weather. The group agrees to respect the unquestionable judgment of the Alpine Guide and that nothing is owed by the organization.
Winter mountain clothing (“onion” clothing recommended, i.e. with various layers to be adjusted based on the temperature:
● thermal underwear
● fleece or soft shell type layer
● waterproof jacket in GoreTex membrane or similar
● warm down jacket or similar
● Semi-waterproof trousers in soft-shell membrane or similar
● Waterproof trousers in Gore-Tex or similar (not essential)
● Hat or headband
● two pairs of snow gloves (one lighter and one heavier)
● ski mask with clear lenses (fog) + sunglasses (at least cat.3)
● UV protection cream
● RIGID high-ankle waterproof mountain boots (high-ankle trekking boots for universal crampons are also suitable, therefore without inserts for semi- or automatic crampons).
● telescopic trekking poles (not essential)
● gaiters (not essential)
● Aspirin or acetylsalicylic acid (active ingredient of aspirin) for possible altitude sickness
● Front light
● 30/40 LT backpack
● Sheet bag
● thermos
● bars/dried fruit/gel for climbs
● Harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet

DOWNLOAD HERE THE LIST Common equipment such as ropes, webbing, carabiners etc. available from the mountain guide.

Useful links for purchasing equipment and clothing:
Tipo di abbigliamento utile per alpinismo, sci alpinismo e ghiaccio
The request for rental equipment must be communicated in good time, at least one week before the start of the event.
However, we recommend communicating this when purchasing the event. The guide will bring all the equipment directly to the event.

Single prices per day
Ice axe: €10
Universal crampons: €10
Harness: €5
Helmet: €5

You can book your equipment from HERE

NOTE:
We do not provide boot rental.
Boots can be rented at the Monturastore AlpStation shop in Aosta (you have to arrange the rental yourself, the shop is located in Saint-christophe, Aosta, tel. 0165 267898) For other useful information on participating in this event you can consult this page

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